A traditional loaf that can be made the day before and enjoyed at the Easter celebrations with cured meats and salty cheeses
One of the most satisfying aspects of cooking is continuity. In my ideal world, this would be an efficient and resourceful stockpot rolling on a back burner, a legion of preserves in the larder, no stale slice of bread or cake left behind, meals cooked with two in mind (the cook’s answer to a child’s one for me, one for you – “you” being the freezer). And while I sometimes achieve some of this, reality is often milder, even in lockdown.
Leftovers are a relay baton into the next meal: a parmesan rind prompting soup, a no-cook jam, the surplus from a lasagne, rolled into cannelloni and then frozen. Then there is the continuation of ideas, the variations on a theme, which feels like the cooking equivalent of wearing the same outfit again and again, washing it but then putting it back on again because it is comfortable and familiar. For the last month of lockdown, I have been wearing a black polo-neck, a denim skirt and black or red opaque tights and making variations on a yeasted dough theme.
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